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News with a Local Lens

What our food critic is grateful for this year
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What our food critic is grateful for this year

This year, I am especially grateful for the dizzying and delicious array of foods available to me and you thanks to immigration.

Mirbentz Jean François is chef-owner of Did You Eat Yet?, a new restaurant and store located in the South End serving a range of Haitian dishes.Lane Turner/Globe Staff

Mirbentz Jean François, or “Bentz” for short, opened Did You Eat Yet? (best name!) in August. He grew up in Haiti, then came to the United States as a teenager nearly 20 years ago. His love of food and posting videos of himself cooking at home became a career. He serves Haitian specialties buffet-style at America’s Food Basket stores, and now at his own restaurant near the Boston Medical Center. It’s worth the detour just for the lalo; A Wednesday special, this tender, cooked Haitian green has an almost tea-like flavor.

Hand-pulled noodles at Jahunger.Jonathan Wiggs/Globe team

In 2017, chef Subat Dilmurat and his wife Nadia Parhat opened Jahunger in Providence. Dilmurat, whose family ran restaurants in Ürümqi, Xinjiang, moved to the United States more than a decade ago. He wanted to showcase Uyghur cuisine: cumin-scented lamb skewers, bubbling vats of chicken stew, glorious hand-pulled noodles. Present it; this year it was named a James Beard Award semifinalist, and in June the couple opened a second Jahunger in Cambridge. I love skewers and all noodle dishes. (I also loved other regional noodles this year, including versions of Lanzhou Beef Noodle Soup at Lanner Noodles & Bar and Zhi Wei Cafe.)

The hot dog at Merai, a Thai-inspired bar and restaurant in Brookline.Jonathan Wiggs/Globe team

I am grateful that Smuch Saikamthorn and Chompon Boonnak, childhood friends from Phetchabun Province, opened Mahaniyom Thai Restaurant in 2020 and followed it up this year with Merai. A very noisy bar (Merai means “alcohol” in Thai), it serves cocktails that incorporate ingredients such as galangal and makrut lime. Chefs and co-owners Thanaphon “Song” Authaiphan and Thanarat “Guide” Kasikitthamrong prepare Thai hot dog-style sausages, fried chicken wings stuffed with garlic rice and more, all of which is pretty darn exciting and fun to eat.

Coconut Shrimp Ceviche, Red Snapper Rundown and Yuca Con Mojo at Black Cat @ Vee Vee.Pat Greenhouse/Globe Staff

On the subject of exciting flavors: Jamaica Plain received two excellent new concepts this year, Abuela’s table And Black Cat @ Vee Vee. In the former, guests can enjoy hearty Mexican dishes from the team behind Somerville favorite Tu Y Yo. At the latter restaurant, “Top Chef” contestant and former Krasi chef Valentine Howell incorporates Caribbean and Mexican flavors in inventive ways. The unifying factor: birria tacos. They are everywhere and I’m not sad about it. It’s great to see more destination restaurants opening in Japan. (There’s also a new branch here of Live Alive Organic Cafe, a local chain that’s growing rapaciously, and will soon be expanding to DC. Again, I’m not sad about it. Someone tell me will make a delicious and healthy salad from ingredients I probably have in my own kitchen but am currently too lazy/busy to combine?

Sushi at 311 Omakase in the South End prepared by chef Weifa Chen.John Tumacki/Globe Staff

Boston is in the middle of a sort of omakase explosion, catching up with other cities where these chef-curated, multi-course sushi menus enjoy great popularity. A city needs worthy splurges, and these meals are an experience. At many of our local restaurants, chefs bring experience from Michelin-starred sushi restaurants in New York and beyond. I was lucky enough to enjoy symphonic meals of pristine seafood and perfect rice this year at 311 Omakase, Sushi Sang Lee, Wa Shin and Washoku Renaissance.

The bar’s island dominates the dining room at Moon Bar, on the edge of Back Bay.
Josh Reynolds for the Boston Globe

Long-time local talent is also thriving. I was happy to celebrate it at places like Jody Adams’ New Luxury La Padrona and Carl Dooley’s reshuffle Moon Bar. At the large and bustling La Padrona, I savored Adams’ Italian throwback through gorgeous breads, vegetable fritto misto, pasta dishes, and stellar cannoli. At the fiery and elegant Moon Bar, I inhaled ceviche, green mango salad and black bass wrapped in banana leaves, accompanied by a rum cocktail, butternut squash and Jamaican jerk spices.

La Padrona opens its doors at Raffles and serves Italian cuisine in a glamorous setting.Brian Samuels

I also enjoyed drinking mocktails, at Moon Bar and beyond. I’m happy to see restaurants, like Feed in Cambridge, introducing zero proof drinks pairings with their tasting menus. I’m not giving up alcohol completely, but I’m happy with these intriguing alternatives. People who don’t drink alcohol deserve fun drinks, too.

The No Name, a Grasshopper special.Jonathan Wiggs/Globe team

I love a triumphant return, especially when it involves a beloved restaurant that closes early. Pioneer of vegan Grasshopperserving Asian dishes featuring tofu, seitan and a range of mock meats, closed in May after nearly 30 years in Allston. Then it found a new home in the Super 88 food court, not far from its original location. I’m excited to be able to eat their vegetarian barbecue pork, gluten stir-fries and more again.

The Dubai chocolate bar, handmade at Petrova Chocolates.Matthew J. Lee/Globe team

My feelings on TikTok trends are mixed, but when it comes to chocolate bars filled with pistachio paste, tahini, and brown butter kataifi, I’m all for it. viral chocolate bar from Dubaicreated by FIX Dessert Chocolatier and inspiring imitators from around the world. Locally, I loved the sleek, scaled-down version at Petrova Chocolates in East Boston.

Even without a sign, people still search and wait in line to buy potatoes at the Maine State Building at the Big E.Christopher Muther/Globe Staff

Anything but reduced and elegant, the big E has won a place in my heart this year: the place reserved for fried appetizers and regional specialties. I loved exploring the culinary offerings of this agricultural fair/commercial hybrid on their own merits, and especially because it meant spending time with co-writer and friend Christopher Muther. There is no one I would rather eat a loaded Maine baked potato with.

The cheese plate is accompanied by Sour Cherry Lozen, made with Apache vinegar, morello cherries and cinnamon at Forage Restaurant in Cambridge, which offers non-alcoholic drink pairings with its tasting menu.Lane Turner/Globe Staff

Devra First can be contacted at [email protected]. Follow her @devrafirst.