On a trip to Antarctica where our main goal was to visit emperor penguins, the last thing we expected was to spend hours running from them.

As we step off our De Havilland Twin Otter ski plane near the Princess Astrid Coast settlement on a clear, clear day – with temperate temperatures barely in negative territory – guide David Sinclair reminds our small group of the rule most important: maintain a five-meter distance at all times. As bird flu rages across the planet, an outbreak in this isolated colony of 5,000 chicks could have a devastating effect.

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