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My Family’s Adaptation of a Classic, Treasured Soup Perfectly Pairs Oysters and Artichokes
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My Family’s Adaptation of a Classic, Treasured Soup Perfectly Pairs Oysters and Artichokes

If you’ve ever heard of legendary chef Warren Leruth, you know he was extraordinary and incredibly accomplished. Among other things, and small in comparison to his overall legacy, he is credited with revolutionizing the world. New Orleans food scene in the mid-1960s.

Leruth began his career as a food chemist and throughout his life never stopped perfecting his unique and highly valued product. vanilla extract. He was the youngest ever elected to the honorable Toques d’Or, the highest recognition acclaimed by to cook can receive in America; and his accomplishments as a baker, restaurateur and for his work in industrial test kitchens have put him on the map as a culinary genius.

He was endowed with superhuman taste sensitivity: he could easily distinguish a flavor within ten thousandths of a gram in a batch of fifteen tons. He found the names, notably Green Goddessand the recipes of Seven seas salad dressings (now owned by Kraft) and holds a patent for its method of stabilizing oil and keeping commercial salad dressings pourable. He went on to create and perfect recipes for Outback Steakhouse, Krystal, Burger King, Nestlé and Popeyes, to name a few; and seriously, that’s only scratching the surface of his accomplishments.

And as if everything I know about him wasn’t enough, Chef Warren Leruth invented the masterpiece that is Oyster Artichoke Soup, although he called it Soups LeRuth, and for me it is the crown jewel of his most esteemed achievements.. He introduced the world to his now-classic soup at his eponymous restaurant, LeRuth’s, which opened its doors in 1966 in Greta, not New Orleans, Louisiana. Although less than ten miles from downtown NOLA, Gretna is across the river and is a great town in its own right, but food historians, current chefs, restaurateurs as well as former customers of LeRuth believe LeRuth was and always will be the best restaurant New Orleans has ever had (even though it was actually in Gretna).

Oyster and artichoke soup, or as it was called, Léruth soup, was a staple on the restaurant’s menu and an absolute sensation during the night. The love for this product spread like wildfire as professional chefs and home cooks rushed to develop their own versions. Leruth made his original with canned artichoke hearts and dried herbs – not what one would expect at what was known as New Orleans’ finest fine dining establishment (although it be Greta’s). His soup contained no milk or cream. He counted on its light roux and the juice of freshly shucked oysters to enrich the broth.


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My family’s adaptation is not made with milk or half and half like most of today’s current recipes are, but it does have a little cream as a finishing option. In the final minutes, when my soup is almost ready and I taste to make final adjustments, I am always amazed that so few ingredients can result in something so sublimely delicious. It comes down to the two main ingredients: oysters and artichokes that go together so exceptionally well. The briny and mineral flavors of the oysters are perfectly complemented by the tangy, nutty and earthy artichokes. A light touch of herbs, a few seasonings, and a bright splash of fresh lemon juice, and you have a most brilliant concoction, one that is now as much of a Creole classic as gumbo.

Only a small amount of cream is needed, or rather desired, and I add it at the very end. The soup stands proudly without it, so your preference will dictate, but a tiny bit of rich cream provides a comforting and elegant finish, making it even more of a standout first course for your next holiday meals.

Oyster and artichoke soup (Potage Leruth)

Ingredients

1 pint fresh shucked oysters (do not drain)

Oyster liquor + chicken broth, to equal 5 cups liquid (see instructions)

1 can of artichoke hearts, drained, rinsed and chopped

4 tablespoons of butter

2 bunches finely chopped green onions, green and white parts separated

Additional regular onion, finely chopped, if necessary to make 1 cup

1 cup celery, finely chopped

2 cloves of fresh garlic, chopped

1/4 teaspoon of salt

Just 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme leaves (not ground)

1/8 teaspoon white pepper

4 tablespoons of flour

1 bay leaf

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire

A dash of cayenne pepper or hot sauce of your choice

1/4-1/2 cup heavy cream

Chopped fresh parsley, optional

Dry sherry, for the table

Instructions

  1. Drain the oysters over a large measuring cup to catch all the liquor (water) in the container. Also be sure to filter out the sandy grains. Use up to 3 1/2 to 4 cups oyster liquor. (You can ask for additional oyster liquor where you buy your oysters.) Add chicken stock to the liquor to make 5 cups of liquid total and set aside.

  2. Cut the oysters to the size you prefer. I prefer small, bite-sized pieces.

  3. Chop the onion, celery and green onions, separate the white and green parts and set aside. (If you have at least a cup of chopped white parts of scallions, you don’t have to use additional onion.)

  4. In a heavy-bottomed pot, melt the butter over medium-low heat, then add the celery, white parts of the scallions, and one additional onion, if necessary, to make 1 cup onion. Do not brown. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring often, until tender. Then add the garlic, thyme, white pepper and salt and cook for another 2 minutes.

  5. Sprinkle the flour into the pan and stir for a few minutes to obtain a light roux. Do not brown.

  6. Add the combined oyster liquor and chicken broth, bay leaf, and a handful of chopped green parts of scallions and bring to a gentle boil.

  7. Add the artichokes and oysters, lemon juice, Worcestershire, a little cayenne pepper or hot sauce, and bring back to a boil then reduce the heat and cook over low heat for about 10 minutes.

  8. Check the seasonings, especially the salt. The need for additional salt can vary greatly depending on your ratio of chicken broth to oyster liquor.

  9. Options: Add cream to soup and heat gently before serving, or ladle into individual bowls, then lightly stir a few tablespoons of cream into each bowl.

  10. Add a very light sprinkling of fresh parsley and some finely chopped green onions to finish if desired.

  11. Serve with dry sherry for the table.


Cook’s Notes

Buying and preparing oysters:

If your seafood store soaks oysters in a gallon container, you can ask for an extra pint of liquor to use in your soup. This extra plus what’s in your container of oysters should add up to about 3 1/2 to 4 cups, which is a large proportion in your 5 cups of liquid for this soup. Be sure to filter the alcohol for bits of sediment. I use kitchen scissors to cut the oysters at least in half before adding them to the soup. The size is up to you.

Puree for a smooth soup or leave some texture:

I prefer a coarse chop of artichokes and oysters to a smooth texture. It is not uncommon to puree this soup, but usually each bowl is then garnished with a whole oyster or two and a few larger pieces of artichoke. Preference dictates.

Onion:

Have a regular onion on hand, but if the white parts of the scallions make up 1 cup, that’s all you need. You will probably have a few green parts left over as you will only need a large handful.

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