Outdoor watering systems are essential to healthy lawns and plants, but are subject to harsh conditions, especially in winter. Although winters around the world are warming to some extent, the effects of climate change may also lead to extreme weather events in the colder months. For example, deep Arctic freezes spread farther south, and Arctic warming makes the jet stream less stable, which can cause prolonged cold in regions not accustomed to this type of severe freeze.

Even in a normal year, nearly 70% of Americans living in snowy areas should prepare their outdoor irrigation equipment to avoid freeze damage, where water expands and can potentially burst or crack the pipe, the pipes or the barrel which contains it. Just like when winter inside your homeYou should winterize outdoor sprinkler systems to avoid damage and potentially costly repairs or replacements.

Rain barrels

Forgetting to empty and cover a rain barrel can result in an interesting but costly sight: a bloated or overturned barrel from the expanding water inside. A rain collection system in areas where winter temperatures are 28 degrees Fahrenheit or colder can freeze and crack as the volume of frozen water increases. This is also true for barrels located in slightly warmer climates but located on the north or shaded side of a house. To be safe, follow these steps to protect rain barrels from the harsh winter weather:

• Start by emptying the rain barrel. Attach a garden hose to the lowest fitting on the barrel and use it to water a tree or garden one last time before frost sets in.
• Most barrels retain some water and sediment at the bottom; if you can lift the barrel, pour out as much as possible.
• Clean the rain barrel before storing it for the winter. Add ¼ cup of distilled vinegar to the water in the barrel and scrub the sides and bottom if you can reach completely inside.
• If the barrel is still dirty or smells rotten, try ¼ cup of 2 percent bleach with a teaspoon of dish soap; rub again.
• Rinse the barrel thoroughly with clean water, especially if cleaning requires bleach.
• Turn the barrel upside down on bricks or wooden blocks to allow air circulation while the barrel empties and dries completely.
• In cold climates, store the rain barrel in a garage or shed if possible.
• If you store the barrel outdoors, remove its spigot (or leave it open) and cover the top opening so no water can get inside.
• After moving the barrel, you may want to install a downspout or gutter extension to direct water away from the roof from melting snow away from your home or from sidewalks and patios that may become hazardous from the ice cream.

Before putting your barrel back into service in the spring, be sure to check the interior for dirt or debris and clean the gutters and downspouts to prevent debris from entering the barrel after the first rain. THE best rain barrels have a screen or filter; replace your barrel filter if it is torn.

Outdoor faucets

Although homes built in the last 30 years have probably anti-freeze tapsYou may have no idea what types of products are used in your home or how their location can affect freezing. It’s better to be safe than sorry to avoid a costly winterizing mistake and resulting plumbing leaks by protecting any outdoor faucet. A garden hose or splitter still attached to the faucet can freeze if water remains, which can cause the hose to burst and cause the pipes behind it to freeze. Be sure to add drainage and remove any garden hoses, soaker hoses or other above-ground faucet accessories to your winter preparation checklistmore :

• Start by turning off the water supply to the tap; the shut-off valve is usually on an interior wall of the house.
• Remove and drain the garden hose (and any splitters or timers) from the faucet. You can drape the hose over a fence or clothesline or lift one end of the hose to waist level and run the entire length of the hose, moving it from hand to hand to create enough gravity to empty the hose .
• Coil up the empty hose and store it in a shed or garage for the winter. Do the same after each use of a hose if you water in winter.
• Once the faucet is free of accessories, open it as usual to drain the remaining water from the faucet.
• Close the tap once it is empty.
• Cover the faucet tightly with foam insulation or a faucet protector such as this one available on Amazon.

If you have an old faucet or need to replace an outdoor faucet, be sure to opt for a frost-free model. Again, it’s better to be safe than sorry with outdoor faucets. Those located on shaded land or north side of a houseor with poor insulation, can freeze even when your thermometer reads warmer in other parts of the yard.

Irrigation systems

Wintering is particularly important for watering and drip systems. The pipes that supply your plants with water are plastic and tiny (from ¾ inch in diameter to ⅛ inch for microtubes). Some plastic tubing and almost all irrigation system fittings and sprinkler heads are subject to frost damage. The specific steps to take depend in part on the typical low temperatures and duration of frosts in your area, the type of irrigation system, and how deeply the pipes are buried. In general, if temperatures typically drop below 30 degrees in winter, you should take steps to protect your system.

• After your last watering and before the first expected frost, drain all water from the lines and components. Start by turning off the water supply to the irrigation (this is usually underground inside the irrigation box).
• Some irrigation systems have automatic drain valves or a backflow prevention device that depends on gravity, but these must have been properly installed to ensure that no water gets trapped in low spots.
• Open all drain valves and drain the non-return device. THE Texas A&M Agrilife Extension Irrigation School offers videos on how to winterize these and other irrigation systems.
• Systems with electric valves or without built-in drainage should be blown with compressed air to ensure complete expulsion of water. It’s often best to leave this to the pros. If you’re DIY, blow out one sprinkler area at a time using appropriate pressure (usually 50 to 80 pounds per square inch, or psi; check out these tips for Colorado State University Extension).
• If necessary, blow out the lines in each area or station twice to ensure all water is removed. If the sprinkler heads stay in the up position and only blow air, you have used enough pressure to empty the lines.
• Seal the ends of open lines with an end fitting, plastic bag or other barrier to prevent debris from entering the irrigation lines.
• Be sure to turn off or disable the system’s timer to ensure it doesn’t run unexpectedly and leave water in the lines.
• Insulate above-ground components of the irrigation system with electrical tape such as this option available on Amazonfoam covers or other methods.
• In colder areas and severe frosts, professionals might recommend unplugging the entire faucet, including the timer, filter, and pressure regulator, and bringing them indoors. This can be more complex and might be best left to a certified irrigation professional. You can also remove any accessible plastic fittings.

If you are unsure how to winterize your particular system, find the instruction manual or check with the system installer, making an appointment for professional help if necessary. When you start the system in the spring, be sure to check and tighten the fittings and check for leaks.