Welcome to my very first column PS, DMs. My name is David Lopez and I have worked as a celebrity hairstylist, content creator and creative director for over 15 years. Each month, I’ll dive into some of the most frequently asked questions about beauty and wellness. If there’s one thing I want you to keep in mind, it’s that there is no one-size-fits-all approach to beauty. My goal is to give you real, honest answers that not only support you on your wellness journey, but also keep it real.

My first edition starts with a question I’m often asked: “Are silicones really bad for my hair?”

Picture this: It was 2001 and I begged my dad to give me a relaxer to straighten my curly hair. (I’ll never forget how her face turned red with secondary embarrassment as her 13-year-old son walked out of the living room with a fresh, bouncy rash). After that, there was no force on earth that could snatch John Frieda’s Frizz-Ease Serum ($14) from my hands. If I didn’t look like a Backstreet Boy or Jonathan Taylor Thomas, I didn’t want one. Then, seemingly overnight, the natural hair movement emerged, fueled by books like “Curly Girl: The Handbook” and the rise of online curly community forums, which claimed that silicones were the cause of hair dry and dull.

Suddenly, silicones became the enemy of everyone trying to embrace their curly, frizzy, frizzy hair all over. Soon, we were all looking aside at our beloved silicone-based serums, convinced that they were the root cause of all our hair problems, like dryness, lack of shine, and stubborn buildup.

So, what exactly are silicones and why are they often found in hair care products? Silicones, including the popular dimethicone, are synthetic polymers that create a protective coating around the hair shaft. They’re used in everything from conditioners to serums because they give hair that silky, shiny, smooth feel we all love. But are they really bad for your hair?

Generally speaking, no, silicones have not been shown to directly damage hair. In fact, they are generally safe for hair and can provide some protective benefits since they coat the hair shaft, which can retain moisture and provide a barrier against heat and all the other things we subject our hair to. hair. Everything from daily brushing and detangling, going to bed with wet hair, and removing rubber bands from your hair does a disservice to your hair goals. This can help hair to be smoother, reduce frizz, make it easier to detangle and make it look shinier.

Now, this is where things get a little more nuanced. Like many things in life, too much of a good thing can take its toll. The potential problem with silicones is not direct damage but rather their effects on your hair over time. Remember, silicones work by building a fortress around your hair strand, which does not dissolve easily. While it is true that silicones lock in moisture, this barrier can also trap moisture, especially that from external conditioning treatments. If there is a thick layer of silicone on the surface of your hair, your conditioner may not penetrate effectively, leading to dryness over time. Have you ever seen the way water beads off a freshly waxed surface? This is what happens to your hair.

During the rise of the natural hair movement, we have also seen the demonization of sulfates (a type of foaming agent), which help to effectively remove these layers of silicone. Without deep cleansing, these silicone layers are not properly removed from the hair and begin to build up. This buildup can make your hair feel heavy, greasy, or limp. Curly people know: when their hair just isn’t giving what it’s supposed to give, it usually means it needs a good old-fashioned shampoo.

Does this mean you should ditch silicones altogether? Not necessarily. It’s really a matter of preference and what works best for your hair type and styling routine. For many people, especially those who have curly or frizz-prone hairThe advantages of silicones far outweigh their disadvantages. For those with fine hair or those who style their hair with minimal heat, you may not need this.

For many people, especially those with curly or frizz-prone hair, the benefits of silicones far outweigh their drawbacks. For those with fine hair, you may not need this.

But here’s the kicker: if you like the way your hair looks and feels with silicone products, keep using them. Continue to check for buildup and maintain a balanced hair care routine, including occasional use of clarifying shampoosto ensure that the benefits of silicones are maximized without causing potential disadvantages such as dryness, heaviness or dullness. Natural oils are a great alternative for a silicone-free lifestyle, but be aware that they also come with their own drawbacks. For example, coconut oil, a popular and easily accessible ingredient, is made up of molecules that are too large to penetrate low-porosity hair, which can lead to oiliness and clogged pores. Brands like Innersense, Shea Moisture, Aveda, and Briogeo offer incredible silicone-free formulations.

There’s something else to note here: Most silicones, including dimethicone, are not water soluble, meaning they don’t dissolve in water and are not biodegradable. These are synthetic polymers that hang around in the environment because they do not break down easily under natural conditions. So while they have scientific benefits for hair, I also feel responsible for disclosing the environmental impact of these ingredients. More recently, cosmetic chemists have explored formulations containing silicones that are more environmentally friendly, provide some level of biodegradability, and are more water soluble (i.e., rinse more easily from hair). This is just another thing to consider when deciding whether or not to use silicones in your hair care routine.

Ultimately, the choice to use silicones depends on your individual needs and preferences. For some, it’s best to avoid them altogether, especially if you’re follow the “curly girl method” or have particularly fine hair. For others, silicones can be a valuable part of your hair care routine. Whatever you choose, remember that healthy hair is all about balance. Pay attention to how your hair reacts to new products or ingredients, experiment with what works for you, and don’t be afraid to change things up when it no longer serves you.

I hope this helps inform your next beauty purchase and, more importantly, helps you find something that makes you feel good.

Until next time, stay well and always remember to be kind to yourself and others.

Big hug,
David

Des DMs is a monthly column in which professional hairstylist David Lopez answers your most pressing beauty questions. Do you have a topic you would like to discuss? Message them on Instagram or email them at [email protected], and let’s continue the conversation.