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A French mountaineer breaks the record for ascent of 14 peaks over 8,000 meters
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A French mountaineer breaks the record for ascent of 14 peaks over 8,000 meters

French mountaineer Alasdair McKenzie has just become the youngest European to climb all fourteen 8,000 meter peaks in the world at the age of 20.

Only fourteen mountains in the world exceed 8,000 meters (26,247 feet). Known as the “Eight Thousand,” all 14 reside in the Himalayan and Karakorum mountain ranges of Asia and reach the rarefied and dangerous strata known as the “Death Zone.”

McKenzie reached the first of fourteen peaks at the age of 17 on Lhotse, the fourth highest mountain in the world. Less than three years later, on October 9, 2024, Alasdair stood atop his final 8,000-meter peak, Shishapangma (26,335 feet), and made history. (Related article on the 14 peaks of 8,000 meters)

Jocelyn Chavy met the young climber and described his exploit to him in a Article for AlpineMag. McKenzie described the feeling of having reached his final peak of eight thousand.

An incredible moment! When I reached the top, it was a relief to be on top of Shishapangma, in the middle of Tibet. For me, this was the most difficult part, because I had been waiting for a year to be able to return to Tibet. The summit was really just an indescribable moment. The first things that come to mind are the sacrifices that were made for this project. It was indescribable to be up there, and with Chiring, my Sherpa, to be able to enjoy it with him. For him, Shishapangma was his 13th 8,000, for me it was my 14th. We simply loved this moment. We stayed at the top for over 20 minutes because it was so good.

Climber Alasdair McKenzie stands atop Cho Oyu mountain

Alasdair McKenzie on Cho Oyu / @AlasdairMcKenzie – AlpineMag

Funding international mountaineering expeditions presents a challenge for most climbers, especially for a mountaineer as young as McKenzie. He found stable financial support from the Princess Charlene of Monaco Foundation from the start of his quest for the highest mountains in the world.

“They liked the project precisely because of my youth and the fact that I share the same values: inspiring young people to pursue their dreams, whether in sport or in education. Ultimately, my age was an advantage.

As of 2023, McKenzie has climbed five of the 8,000 meter peaks – an incredible feat for any mountaineer.

“Doing the five summits in eleven days was really difficult. We are completely exhausted physically, but afterwards, in the mountains, whether in the Alps or here, it is the mind that takes over. That’s what it’s about. You have to have a good mind. And then you have to know how to save your energy, sleep when you can sleep, eat a lot. Because few mountaineers talk about it. But up there, you have to eat calories and calories. You always have to eat, always drink, try to recover as much as possible, try to sleep.

A photo of mountaineer Alasdair McKenzie

Alasdair McKenzie / @AlasdairMcKenzie – AlpineMag

McKenzie will now have time to sleep. He plans to spend some time relaxing on the beach before focusing on his studies to pursue higher education. However, McKenzie’s next big adventure is coming soon, as the mountains always call it.

All I can say is that my next big project will be much bigger, more ambitious, and it will be a first. In the mountains, of course.

The ascent of the “eight thousand” constitutes the ultimate mountaineering feat. Legendary Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner became the first to scale all of these prestigious mountains in 1986. His historic feat, continued since by ambitious mountaineers like Alasdair McKenzie, set the record for mountaineering success.