Japanese alcoholic beverages have long made a name for themselves on the global stage, with sake and whiskey revered for their refined flavors and cultural heritage. However, some lesser-known traditional alcoholic drinks are now introduced to local and foreign visitors. Doburoku is an unfiltered liquor with a very long but somewhat controversial history. Although it has been out of the market for many decades, it is slowly making a comeback.
Doburoku is one of Japan’s oldest alcoholic drinks, dating back centuries. It is prepared by simply combining rice, water and a special rice mold called kouji. Unlike refined sake, which goes through several stages of filtration and fermentation, doburoku is created in a single batch, producing a sweet, cloudy drink with a lower alcohol content, around 6 to 12 percent. It is simple and could easily be produced by farmers for personal use and at local festivals. It is also present in most Shinto shrines to facilitate rituals and other forms of celebration.

Doburoku’s popularity began to wane in the late 19th century, as the Meiji government was consolidating power and eager to generate more tax revenue while restricting home brewing processes. All home-brewed liquors, including doburoku, were banned in 1899; this was therefore the birth of the disastrous destiny of this drink. A black market in illicit beer quickly developed, nicknamed “moonshine” or mitsuzoushu, while doburoku was available mainly for Shinto religious ceremonies at shrines.

In 2003, the Japanese government began allowing certain restaurants and inns to legally sell doburoku in specially designated “deregulation zones,” areas intended for economic growth. This is when the modern renaissance of doburoku truly began, and as of 2021, nearly 200 establishments were operating in Japan selling the drink.
Perhaps the most famous is Tokyo’s Heiwa Doburoku Kabutocho Brewery, which you’ll find in the Nihombashi district. Opened by sake brewer Heiwa Shuzo Brewery in 2022, its goal is to rediscover this historic drink to Tokyoites and tourists alike. The location is a good choice because Nihombashi was once a bustling port for sake shipments during the Edo period or what is known today from the years 1603 to 1868. A company of Heiwa Shuzo, this place gives customers a taste of Japan’s past with rustic ambiances. drinks in elegant, upscale settings where Japanese tradition meets modern appeal.

Doburoku has a full-bodied, bold flavor; it often has a tangy, yeasty taste with hints of cheddar cheese or tropical fruit noni. Doburoku is cloudy and unfiltered like other fine sakes, giving it mystery and appeal. Craft brewing is finally gaining traction internationally as doburoku takes its place back in the spotlight and reminds the beverage world of a new, renewed interest in heritage drinks, honoring tradition in a basic way.

As this unique Japanese spirit experiences a resurgence, doburoku is more than just an old world drink. It is a testament to Japan’s evolving relationship with its cultural heritage: an appreciation for preserving the past while adapting to the future.
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