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Paul Costelloe and Niamh Gillespie bring relaxed, easy elegance to menswear with their new collections – The Irish Times
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Paul Costelloe and Niamh Gillespie bring relaxed, easy elegance to menswear with their new collections – The Irish Times

The vest or sleeveless vest, padded or quilted, is the most practical and stylish way to layer up in winter. Keeping the body warm, but leaving the arms free, it can be worn comfortably over a sweater or a shirt and a tie and there are many variations at prices starting from €15 (Dunnes Stores) up to €298 at Lululemon.

It is not surprising that this is one of the key elements of Paul Costelloéthe latest menswear collection from Dunnes Stores. A self-confessed “total jeans man”, his everyday uniform consists of denim jeans, a striped shirt and, while he cycles to work daily from Putney to his Marble Arch studio in London, layered over a quilted vest.

The veteran Irish designer is proud of his menswear collection, now in its 10th year and stocked in 50 stores across Ireland “and growing,” he says. For fall/winter 2024, it consists of 45 pieces – from ties to suits to leather bags.

Six adult sons, most of whom are artistically inclined, keep him in check, but it is William, a painter whose subtle sense of color permeates all of his father’s collections, who is probably the strongest influence and very involved in the company. Responsible for the setting of this shoot, with the familiar image of Dublin’s twin towers, he also happens to be the brand’s in-house model and a perfect size 40, medium.

The new collection recognizes the current trend of plum and dark sage as well as the conventional shades of brown, navy and off-white used for chunky knits, fine cord trousers and winter basics which include wax jackets and cashmere blend overcoats, all at affordable prices. .

In our conversation he frequently cites the way Tom Cruise dresses like something he admires and says suits and ties “are not completely gone.” I like the idea of ​​leaving the tie loose and wearing a suit casually, like Cruise and Colin Farrell do, and looks good in a suit. The rare times he wears one is for “serious occasions”. For his daughter Jessica’s wedding, he wore a black one with a black tie.

( Good yarn: Irish knitwear designer to the stars Colin Burke becomes main attractionOpens in a new window )

He describes the cut and fit of his men’s clothing as more English and German than Italian. “By that I mean it’s not as tapered – it’s more of a comfortable fit and you have to do that well to please customers.”

He argues that women generally appreciate good quality men’s clothing and should buy certain items for themselves, such as black and white jacquard sweaters. “I have to thank the Irish wives for dragging their husbands to the store (my men’s clothes) when they should be at the rugby matches,” he laughs, although admitting that dressing rugby players is a poisoned chalice “because it is very difficult to get tailor-made clothes”. that suit them and outerwear like waistcoats or waxed jackets are therefore a better choice.”

Checked blazer €120, trousers €60, silk tie €30, twill shirt €45, Paul Costelloe
Checked blazer €120, trousers €60, silk tie €30, twill shirt €45, Paul Costelloe
Waxed jacket €150, scarf €25, cashmere sweater €140, leather tote €200, chinos €60, Paul Costelloe
Waxed jacket €150, scarf €25, cashmere sweater €140, leather tote €200, chinos €60, Paul Costelloe

Costelloe is planning a fashion show at his family’s Monkstown home in Dublin, which he has kept even though London remains his home. The city works for him in other ways, too, “because I can sit when I come to Marble Arch and watch how people dress, and there’s so much going on here, that it keeps me in touch. contact and visible”.

Another Irish menswear designer is Niamh Gillespie, whose prints, quality patterns and luxury accessories for men are her favorites. News mark are intended for a particular customer. “He is bold and brazen,” she says, “not afraid to take risks in fashion and in life, and his confidence is reflected in his sophisticated yet distinctive clothing choices and bravado.”

Graphic scarf in animal silk twill €259, Tidings by Niamh Gillespie
Graphic scarf in animal silk twill €259, Tidings by Niamh Gillespie
Navy blue and orange silk scarf €259, Tidings by Niamh Gillespie
Navy blue and orange silk scarf €259, Tidings by Niamh Gillespie
Silk twill scarf €189, Tidings by Niamh Gillespie
Silk twill scarf €189, Tidings by Niamh Gillespie

Called Modern Gentry, its new collection includes three styles of scarves in different patterns and color variations: printed silks lined with high-quality wool (important to prevent the silk from slipping), pure wool printed with striking patterns and soft, narrow bristles. “The palette is rich and opulent, the patterns opulent and fun.” Any of these pieces would add drama to any outfit, an effective way to make an everyday ensemble pop.

With over 20 years of design experience working with Paul Smith, Alexander McQueen and Liberty, Gillespie’s unisex collections, with their underlying playfulness, have earned him numerous accolades. Recent collaborations include a collaboration with Paboy Home on a number of bold and bright cushions as well as a limited edition capsule of heritage-inspired silk scarves in the Dromoland Castle store. Scarf prices start from €189. The clothes shown with her scarves are from Louis Copeland and Tony McDonnell in Dundalk. www.tidings.ie