In August, I traveled the west coast of Thailand, from the island of Phuket to the laid-back province of Phang Nga. The region is famous for the spectacular limestone karst formations that rise from Phang Nga Bay, but traveling out of season – and off the beaten path – allowed me to see it from a new perspective. At Sarojin Thailand, At a beachfront hotel near Khao Lak town, monsoon rain released a cascade of scents from the garden’s tropical flowers. Watching the sun rise over the Andaman Sea the next morning, I found it hard to believe that this pristine coastline had, in 2004, been the site of a devastating tsunami.

The first stop on my itinerary, planned by the expert team at InsideAsia Tours, was the port town of Takua Pa. It was once the center of the local tin mining industry, and I could still see traces of the architecture built by Chinese and Portuguese merchants who settled there in the 19th century. I visited a tailor working with traditional Thai and Malaysian prints, a new cafe in a renovated townhouse, and a vendor selling fried pastries on a wheeled cart.

Then I went up Khao Sok National Parkin the neighboring province of Surat Thani, where I spent two days hiking, exploring caves and looking for wildlife. On Cheow Larn Lake, riding a wooden longtail boat was an almost surreal experience, with huge limestone shards shrouded in fog and endless pristine jungle on all sides. Sometimes I would hear the sound of elephants wandering in the bushes and wait for a glimpse. Alas, we never arrived. I Slept Over the Water — Resort Villas 500Rai are hung along a pier above the lake.

My final destination was Six Senses Yao Noi, which takes its name from the small, quiet island in Phang Nga Bay on which it is located. When I wasn’t exploring the surrounding villages, I took part in some of the activities the resort offered, including a class with a former Muay Thai boxing champion. In the evening, I would relax with a cocktail at Hilltop, a restaurant located at the highest point of the hotel, and take in the stunning views of the bay.

Grant Ekelund ([email protected]), specialist at InsideAsia Tours and member of the T+L A-List, can put together an itinerary in Thailand including Phang Nga and Surat Thani. From $900 per person per day.