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Marrisa Wilson on her LAFW collection – Essence
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Marrisa Wilson on her LAFW collection – Essence

Marrisa Wilson on creating a collection paying homage to her Caribbean roots

Marrisa Wilson

Marrisa Wilson has always had a distinct point of view. At W Hollywood, she told me she wanted to become a designer since she was very young. Wilson who founded his brand in 2016 in New York City has had a concise plan since she was in second grade.

THE eponymous label in Wilson’s words, it’s a unique blend of utilitarianism, sportswear and craftsmanship. She finds power and beauty in embracing the many aspects that make up the individual, especially in her clients. “My brand is centered around this idea of ​​celebrating the super power of multicultural women,” she shares.

For this year’s LAFW, Wilson presented his Spring/Summer 2024 collection titled “Wild Coast.” Many of the pieces are inspired by the Rupununi region of southern Guyana, her family’s home country, and broader themes in Western culture. This southern region, unlike what is commonly referred to as Caribbean terrain, is a desert region teeming with rodeo culture. While ruminating on this unique subculture, she thought about the idea of ​​a Caribbean cowboy and let it guide the inspiration for her latest line.

“For the ‘Wild Coast’ collection, I wanted to (create a) mix of land and sea,” Wilson explain. Here she begins to speak about this connection through her creations. The collection as a whole blends elements of his Caribbean heritage with the cowboy archetype. Taking inspiration from the Guyanese method of net fishing, she made a net dress, with details of handmade tropical flowers, as if they were native flowers ‘caught’ in the fishing nets. She also took the idea of ​​the western fringe, applied her custom print and cut the fringe into the shape of palm blades.

Marrisa Wilson on her LAFW collection
Marrisa Wilson

Pieces from the collection featuring mesh or fringe details are accompanied by those with its field-inspired printed designs, either printed directly onto the fabric or woven through a jacquard material, offering two detail-rich methods of translating prints . Panels and multi-pocket designs on its suits emphasize the utility of Western clothing such as stylish storage and gun holsters, while sportswear elements like the band under the panels on the sleeves of the suit jackets offer a stronger vision for women’s clothing.

His creative process encompasses different creative mediums. Building on the connection between audio and visual storytelling, Wilson always starts by creating a playlist that helps him anchor his ideas. For her latest album, she looked to artists such as Sam Cooke and Otis Redding to imagine this soulful archetype and infused reggae. What she stumbled upon were looks with a Calypso vibe that looked like clothing fit for outlaw cowboys — each look was created through her lens and worldview.

Her detailed prints, all designed and hand painted by Wilson herself, her fabric manipulations and her musical influence, are just some of the many tools used to communicate her story. She believes that the artistic process is constantly evolving and wants the message to be expressed beyond the collection, whether through conversation or other creative output.

The designer says she likes to explore concepts and sources of inspiration. She uses different mediums, including campaigns and photo shoots, to showcase her creativity. For this reason, documenting the legacy of one’s work is also an integral part of the creative process. Sketch, dismantle concepts, photograph, record, come back to them, reconstruct them. She describes how you’ll never know what the final product will be or if you should return to an idea for another project until you get into the details.

With the amount of detail, thought and creative side that goes into each piece, you almost have to see them in person to fully appreciate them. This was partly a driving factor in Wilson’s decision to showcase his designs at LAFW. The designer emphasizes the importance of connecting with her consumers to understand how fashion can be a tool to communicate who they are and what versions of themselves they are evolving into.

“I think Los Angeles Fashion Week is much more consumer-centric, especially the idea of ​​the marketplace which was appealing because I wanted to replicate that immersive experience that you have when you come to the studio,” Wilson explained.

After experiencing a bit of the fashion circuit in New York, life brought her to Los Angeles. She expresses that the environment is in tune with the creative and personal era she currently finds herself in.

She appreciates Los Angeles for the space and freedom it affords her to create for herself and others on an individual basis, and thrives in the one-on-one appointments she now takes with her clients. Being hyperlocal and understanding her core community on the West Coast is her current priority.

Her appointment-only studio in Venice embodies this idea of ​​community building in practice. She sees how important it is for her clients to have these conversations about fashion and self-expression. “We’re living in such a strange time in the world right now that I think art is going to become more meaningful and more urgent. No one has time for mediocrity,” she says.

She’s noticed a recurring sentiment, which is that people want to break out of the mold they’ve occupied for so long and embrace the multitudes of their personalities through style, rather than allowing a singular version of themselves to dictate their wardrobe.

This sentiment fits well with her brand’s idea of ​​multiculturalism, which aims to identify the beauty that sets us all apart and, in turn, embrace differences together. The fusion of each creative element and aspects of a personality is grounded in his belief that solutions can be found through multiculturalism.

The designer also achieves this by giving practical meaning to inclusiveness. With her design studio, she has developed a cost-free practice of modifying the styles of her collections to best adapt to the bodies of her consumers. Wilson describes how these community-rooted connections have influenced the trajectory of his label. She also explains that it broadened the horizon of what could happen next for her eponymous brand.

“It’s not just about creating a new collection. I’m moving away from seasons and I want to start thinking about collections as stories, with products that help tell that story,” she told ESSENCE.