It’s a denim staple for a reason.

As any denim lover knows, jeans are not all the same. Not only are there different cuts and silhouettes to choose from, but washes can also range from dark indigo to light washed blue. When shopping for jeans, it’s important to know the subtle differences between different styles so you end up with an item that you love (and that won’t accidentally shrink in the wash).

This year, dark indigo shades are trending, giving raw denim a new place in the fashion cycle. But if this term raises your eyebrows, don’t worry. Raw denim simply refers to the material in its purest form, meaning it has not been washed or treated during production. Whether you opt for raw denim loose jeans or a classic straight leg pairThis type of jeans goes with everything while creating a statement look.

If you’re new to the concept of raw denim, you may be wondering if it’s worth adding to your wardrobe. So we called on Taj Garmon, the global designer of Lee For men, to break down every detail of raw denim, including care tips and overall fit.

What is raw denim?

“Raw denim means that the denim fabric has not been washed or touched with water during the production cycle, making it stiffer,” explains Garmon. “Over time, this stiffness will soften and adapt to the unique shape of the wearer’s body.” While raw denim starts out as a deep indigo shade, he says the dye will fade over time, leading to a “one-of-a-kind whisker pattern and unique abrasion” for a custom pair of jeans.

Raw denim can also be classified into two types: sanforized and non-sanforized. Garmon explains that sanforized raw denim undergoes a “chemical process to reduce its ability to shrink,” while unsanforized raw denim receives no treatment to prevent shrinkage.

How long does it take to break in raw denim?

All denim takes a few uses to break down, but due to its stiffer structure, raw denim takes a little longer to go through this process. “It can take anywhere from one to several months for raw denim to be completely broken in, depending on the number of garments,” says Garmon. “The longer the break-in period, the more the raw denim can relax and let the fabric develop its unique wear patterns. »

If you want your raw denim to fit your body better, Garmon recommends wearing your garment before put it in the wash. However, if you prefer a pre-wash, he advises wearing your jeans in a hot shower. This will help remove any excess indigo dye from your raw denim, as Garmon says that simply “soaking can cause it to redeposit.”

How to Care for Raw Denim

When it comes to caring for raw denim, there are a few important steps to follow. Although you can wash most of your jeans after a few wears, Garmon recommends washing raw denim every two to six months. “The first time you wash your raw jeans, first soak them in lukewarm water with a teaspoon of mild detergent for 30 to 60 minutes,” he explains. “After that, air dry until slightly damp.”

Before putting on your freshly washed raw denim, Garmon says you want your jeans to still be slightly damp so they can finish air-drying on your body. All future cleanings should be carried out using the hand washing method before drying raw denim flat or hanging outdoors to preserve the quality of your jeans.

With raw denim, you also need to be careful about color transfer, as excess indigo dye may be on the surface of your garment. Garmon recommends laying down a blanket before sitting on light-colored furniture and rolling up your jeans if you’re wearing a pair. white shoes. “The indigo does not penetrate to the center of the thread; it’s at the top,” he says. “The darker the denim, the better the chances of cracking. After a few washes everything should be fine, but I always err on the side of caution.

How does raw denim fit?

Don’t worry if the first time you put on raw denim it’s slightly snug, that’s just the nature of the rigid textile. “Raw denim should be true to size with a little room at the waist to account for shrinkage,” says Garmon. “It feels stiff because it hasn’t gone through any process that gives it a soft hand.”

As you wear and wash your raw denim, it says it will shrink and soften, conforming to your body over time for a more comfortable fit. Just be patient.

Benefits of buying raw denim

According to Garmon, there are several reasons why you might want to buy raw denim over other types. “One of the benefits of raw denim is knowing that with that consistent wear, you’ll have a pair of jeans that fit and feel authentic to your sense of style,” says Garmon. Another advantage? Raw denim is meticulously crafted. “The machines that create raw selvage denim are old,” says Garmon. “They require constant attention and are operated by skilled craftsmen who have been in this industry for a long time.”

The only downside to investing in a pair of raw denim is that it may take you several months to achieve the fit you want. However, Garmon states that “the process, although long, will result in a pair of jeans truly unique so you can enjoy it for many years.