The beech wood carving of a brown bear, similar to a sentinel on its hind legs, is the only indication that I am in the right place in Ribnica, a small town in southeastern Slovenia. Hidden behind the family home is the workshop of small producer David Lesar.

That seems rather understated for someone praised by luminaries of the culinary world (including Noma’s René Redzepi) for his cured and fermented meats made from pork, beef, deer and, especially, bear.

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