Ōtepoti Dunedin is one of Aotearoa’s best-preserved Victorian and Edwardian towns, but you don’t have to be a heritage buff to appreciate its food, architecture and fashion, as Penny Lewis discovers.

From the gothic-style architecture to the tinkling guitars of the Dunedin sound and the subversive aesthetic of Nom*d, Ōtepoti has
has long had its own type of intelligent, introspective culture.

Just as the city’s built heritage is celebrated, so too are many of its creative industries and long-established independent businesses. Here are some places to check out next time you’re in town.

Founded by Margarita Robertson and her husband Chris in 1979, Feather is located in a beautiful space at 310 George St that was formerly an Ernest Adams patisserie. The store’s brands include Anna Rodewijk, Comme des GarthatGo on, Dries Van NotenRick Owens, Rory William Docherty and Zambesi, as well as Nom*d des Robertson, founded in 1986.

Nom*d’s dark, clever designs are so ingrained in the Dunedin aesthetic that Nom*d Dunedin T-shirt inspired the city’s logo – Dunedin is written with a lowercase d in a Gothic style.

Ōtepoti has some fantastic places to stay. Magnificent heritage accommodation includes five-star hotel Fable Dunedin at 310 Princes St, which has 50 rooms and two suites in the former Wains Hotel building dating from 1862. Fable Dunedin’s Restaurant and Bar The Press Club pays homage to the building’s role as a hideout for editors and publishers in the 1870s.

The Chamberson The hotel is located in a heritage industrial building on the corner of Stuart and Cumberland Streets. There are six warehouse apartment-style rooms to stay in, including the loft penthouse apartment, which has an impressive roof terrace. At 469 Moray Place, The Burlington is a large and luxurious two bedroom apartment with bathroom and a huge kitchen and dining room.

For a contemporary stay, Dunedin Ebb at 82 Filleul St is a clean-lined disruptor in the heritage-rich city center. Designed by Gary Todd Architecture with interiors by Sydney-based Indyk Architects, the four-storey hotel has 27 rooms and one suite which overlook a central atrium. Ebb Dunedin’s design honors include the Sir Miles Warren Award for Commercial Architecture from the New Zealand Institute of Architects.

Their food is gourmet standard, but owner-operators Sam Gasson and Kim Underwood of Half at 42 Queens Gardens emphasize that their 26-seat restaurant is not a fine dining establishment. “Our menu is constantly evolving as we are guided by local produce when possible. Rather than just feeding you, our goal is to provide you with a complete dining experience with delicious food and epic, unpretentious service. Moiety offers snacks and small plates, which can be enjoyed alone or with a five-course tasting menu.

As its name suggests, Pizzeria at 117 Stuart St is a casual place to enjoy delicious slices, cocktails, natural wine and beer. The restaurant has been open for three years and has just changed ownership. The menu changes so frequently that you need to check Instagram of the pizza bar to see what is on offer.

Mark Fraser and his brother Nick are the “fourth guardians” of the Japanese restaurant Jizoat 56 Princes St. Jizo opened in 1997 and Mark and Nick have owned it for six years. “We’ve made a few changes during this time: we introduced table service and refreshed the menu,” says Mark. It’s worth making a reservation at Jizo, which also offers keto and vegan menus. The Frasers also own the Brew Bar pub at 12 The Octagon.

Very popular with students, Bagels teleported to me Freshly hand-baked bagels are sold at two Dunedin outlets. The North East Valley store at 9 North Rd is directly opposite ‘Bo-tan’ – the Dunedin Botanical Gardens. Beam Me Up’s urban location, at 102 Great King St, is a larger space with more cafe seating. You can choose your bagel type – parmesan, rosemary, jala and cheddar, cheese and onion, sesame or poppy seeds, as well as sweet options and bagels to take home. Salmon lovers will love the District 9 stuffed bagel sandwich option with slices of cold-smoked salmon, pickled red onion, baby capers and organic cream cheese.

For a bite to eat away from downtown Dunedin, head to St Clair. Esplanadeat 2 Esplanade is a long-term favorite. It’s a great place to watch the waves crash while enjoying pasta and pizza. If you find a seat near the kitchen, you can hear the pizzaioli chatting in their native Italian as they prepare ingredients and maneuver pizza paddles in the wood-fired oven. Also in St Clair is titi at 24 Esplanade. Try its Feed Me surprise menu.

Of course, there’s more to St Clair than just the food. THE St Clair Hot Salt Water Pool At the southern end of the beach there is a slight Bondi vibe and the beach itself is beautiful. The beach’s waves are not for the faint-hearted, but local surfers love them.

A little further south along the coast, Tunnel Beach is a great place to visit only at low tide. Currently closed due to slips following a weather event, Tunnel Beach is accessible via a steep descent down the hill, with the sand itself accessible via an artificial tunnel carved into the rocks. Keep an eye on the Department of Conservation website to see when the track will reopen.

If you fancy a road trip, head north from Dunedin to Waitati in Blueskin Bay. You will find Harvey Street Merchantat 2 Harvey St. The boutique grocer sells home goods and a range of foods sourced from local growers and producers, including vegan and plant-based options.

Back in town, you’ll also find local meats, produce, artisan goods and snacks at Otago Farmers Market. The market is open from 8:00 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. on Saturdays in the Dunedin train station car park.

Dunedin Station itself is an important part of one of Dunedin’s best known events, iD Dunedin Fashion Week. Next year’s fashion week will take place from April 1 to 6. On April 5 and 6, the station platform will become a 120-metre walkway for the iD Dunedin fashion show and finalists in the iD International Emerging Designer Awards competition.

There’s no place like home.