When I first heard about The unruly pig – which I had to assure my friends and family was not in fact named after me – I was filled with pretty high expectations.

Located in Bromeswell, Suffolkit is, according to Estrella’s list of the 50 best gastropubs, the number one in the UK. Although I like to approach a meal with a blank page, or clean slate For my fellow philosophy graduates, such distinctions are hard to ignore.

The Unruly Pig itself has really nailed what it means to be a gastropub, a restaurant atmosphere, whilst retaining its essential ‘pub’ feel: exposed beams, dark walls, a crackling fireplace, Persian rugs and artwork. art I would like to hang. in my own house (like Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper – except it’s Tony Soprano and his disciples).

There is an a la carte option for starter and main course purists, as well as a tasting menu, “Be Unruly”, which costs £75 per person. They are more than happy to accommodate this for all diets, which they did for my mother, sin gluten.

And don’t forget the wine; there are more than 60 available by the glass. Luckily we didn’t feel overwhelmed for long as our fantastic server offered us different ones for different courses, and he really knew his stuff.

I had recently visited Mersea and tasted their glorious local oysters, so I know full well that they are some of the best. However, I hadn’t tried a fried Mersea oyster. Or any fried oyster for that matter. They arrive on their shells, having been coated in chicken breadcrumbs, one drizzled with an incredibly spicy XO sauce, the other with dill, smoked cucumber and caviar. These are two bites that I have to close my eyes and chew slowly to really enjoy – which I end up doing a lot throughout this meal – hot, breaded, then bursting with flavor from the sea, these are bites. sign of all bright things to come.

Amid delicious whipped butters, soft focaccia, teensy ‘nduja and taleggio arancino and smoked cod tartlet (tick, tick, tick, tick), there’s a foie parfait of chicken with triangles of crispy and salty shards of chicken skin placed on top. Two of my favorite things combined in a format I didn’t even know was allowed; I began to feel seen and understood in a way that no institution had made me feel before.

It’s difficult to choose a favorite among the heartier dishes; what I imagine it would be like to choose a favorite child. But the wild bass arrives as a true work of art. A beet puree or gel magically encircles the fish, which is as crispy as it humanly could be without being burnt (i.e. perfection) and a crunchy little morsel they call a fritelle di patate (imagine a hash brown with no soggyness, just pure texture). It’s swimming in a smoked cucumber and egg butter sauce. I’m pretty sure I didn’t say a word during this one and just got carried away by the flavors.

It would be a mistake not to mention the rump of lamb – pink, fatty, with a lamb and rosemary vinaigrette – or the chalk brook trout – tangy, lemony, with a touch of chilli. All I can really say is that this meal touched my soul, found my favorites, made them exceptional, and then allowed me to eat them.

The owner Brendan comes over for a chat at one point and is as lively and charming as the food. He worked in law for over 35 years before opening the Pig and exudes passion, which as you can see plays a big part in why this place does so well. That and the impeccable, precise cooking of chef Dave Wall (formerly of Bibendum, Gordon Ramsay’s Boxwood Café, Claridges and Le Talbooth).

The menu changes at least once a month, but don’t worry, I think the parfait is a mainstay – it’s more of a reassuring note for me when I inevitably return.

It all ends with a delicious palate-cleansing semifreddo with lemon sorbet, then a chocolate hazelnut tart with blackberry, while my mother gets a gluten-free Earl Gray pannacotta with syrupy jammy figs. Should I say they were all divine? If this all sounds like a lot of food, that’s because it was, but it takes place over several hours and you can fit just about it all in.

My high expectations were finally exceeded. I just hadn’t really thought that pub food could be this good. And given how tailored this menu seemed to be to me, I would be more than happy to be known as an unruly pig from now on.

The Unruly Pig, Orford Road, Bromeswell, Woodbridge, IP12 2PU | 01394 460310 | theunrulypig.co.uk